Its been wild and beautiful weather here lately, strong winds, big tides, torrential rain. The back garden is a mire, but the veges are thriving. The bees keep to themselves in the rain, but are still out there finding plenty of pollen I notice when conditions allow. Fantastic surf on Sunday! 5-6 foot swell, some bigger sets, off shore winds, sun was out, puurrrfect. Went down from the water tower to one of my favourite spots and got some rippers. Some big wipe outs too and a bit of a sore neck Monday to boot.
Hey, I recognise that water tower. Are they photos of other surfers or is that you on the waves? You surf waves that big? Rough estimate of the weight of the water falling on you in that situation is in the range of 100 to 300 kilograms? Ouch.
ReplyDeleteThe lad on the left hander is Ian, a young high school kid who has just completed a 100 day challenge of surfing every day, and raised a lot a mulla for the clown doctors! He then went on to go for a year of surfing every day (of course his mentor is G George) and that photo was taken on day 364. The other is Adam, a friend and the local life guard in the season. He's a gun surfer and just eats up that kind of stuff. He's surfed Hawaii and Indo and is as fit as a Malley Bull. And yes I did catch some waves that size, got some incredible rides, and more than once felt like I'd just been tackled by the All Black forward pack.
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